Mike Cheliak: Photography, Fitness, Nutrition and Life

Shifting Gears – Blog moving to Mike Cheliak Dot Com

Hi everyone,

My business consultant has advised me that as the time approaches for me to launch my series of eBooks, that it is a very good idea to compact my online identity and to my main domain at www.mikecheliak.com.  The only thing this means is that all the blog posts and information from Mike’s Commando Guide will now be moved to my main blog site.  It is far too difficult to maintain two busy blogs and I need a launching platform to host my eBooks.

I can assure you that you will continue to receive the BEST and most current digital photography information from me along with a tonne of other great stuff including some of my personal journies!

The blog will be moved in the next day or so and all subscriptions to my Newsletter and article emails will be intact!

Cheers!

Mike C.

Photography Tip – Interested in starting a Sports Photography Business?

Hi everyone,

As most of you know, I will be launching my first eBook next week. Mike’s Commando Guide for Digital Photography – CAMERAS and EQUIPMENT.  It is how-to power guide designed to arm you with all the information you are going to need to make an intelligent purchase, learn more about the equipment you have and maximize the use for your camera.  I will also be launching an exciting second eBook in early spring covering all the details of how to take action sports photos.  This guide is sure to be a very popular seller and will help anyone take better sports photos.

That brings me to today’s post.  I have been approached over the years by many aspiring photographers asking “how do I start up a sports photography business?”  The answer is not something you can just “explain” in a conversation nor is it a subject suited for a blog post.  It is however a great question and one that I have intimate knowledge about.  Less than 10 years ago, I left the Government and started out my business.  I re-educated myself through schooling, workshops, business consultants and industry leaders.  I soaked up as much information as possible and started my business, Mike Cheliak Photography.  I just over 3 years, I was no longer calling clubs, leagues, schools and studios for business; they were calling me!  Since then my roster of clubs, schools, dance studios, organizations and events is now so dynamic that my business model had been hounded by franchise developers and industry corporations.  I myself have no time for either as I love being a photographer, I love working in sports and with kids and I am DAMN GOOD AT IT!  I now service over 10,000 kids in clubs and leagues, more than 2000 dance students, I cover the second largest triathlon series in Canada and I am the official photographer for Brock University Athletics.  OH…One more thing.  Nobody but me EVER takes a photo in my name…EVER!  I have a wonderful Co-op program through a local school, I contract my processing through former Co-op placements and my daughter processes for me.  I have well over $30,000 worth of computer hardware and I am an ACE (Adobe Certified Expert) in Photoshop.

I am also a smart business person and realize the potential for recurring revenues and sales from my knowledge which is why I have chosen to launch this line of eBooks.  The photography business is not easy and your reputation must be built and maintained by flawless customer service.  I don’t just do sports photography but that comprises about 90% of what I do.  The other 10% is commercial, architectural and family/pet photography.

Sign up for my FREE newsletter and get on my mailing list!  I will be updating everyone as I get closer to launching any of my books.  My subscribers ALWAYS get better deals than the click through customers and the information you are going to get from my Newsletters is diverse, useful and always a good read.

The one thing I promise is to work tirelessly so I can get this Sports Photography eBook done for you ASAP and help you build a successful business from the ground up!

As always my best wishes for your health and happiness!

Mike C.

Photogaphy Tips – A Quick Guide for Sports Shooting 101

Here are some quick tips for you to use as a guideline for shooting sports.  This will be a great little resource for sports mom’s and dad’s to get the most out of getting photos of your children while following some basic rules of practice.

1.      If you’re outdoors try to position yourself so that you’re between the sun (or brightest stadium lights) and your subject. This will illuminate them better. You can get some interesting rim light early and late in the day if the sun is behind them, especially around their hair (if they’re not wearing some sort of helmet or mask), but their faces will be in shadow. We humans tend to identify people by their faces, and sports photography is no exception. When the sun is behind them beware of flare.

2.      Also for outdoor sports, if you’re shooting near sunset note which parts of the field are sunlit the longest. You’ll get higher shutter speeds, and generally better shots in these areas. Once the sun goes down and you’re under stadium lights all bets are off.

3.       Avoid overexposing light areas. This often happens when one of the teams has white jerseys, especially during the day. Even worse, some are made from fabrics which are not only white, but shiny as well. In order to avoid this you can dial in some negative exposure value (EV) compensation. Any more than about -1.0 can often result in dark areas that are too dark. Use what you need, but no more.

4.      Dialling in negative EV is also a way to keep your shutter speed sufficiently high when shooting at night or in insufficiently lit arenas. But this has a downside – the dark area may be severely underexposed, and you’ll get more grain/noise. You can try to add back some light by various means regardless of whether you’re shooting film or digital, but you can never really regain lost light. There are lots of tricks to overcome this, but that’s an article in itself.

5.      If it’s a sport you’re unfamiliar with, practice before the big day. Where are the good places to stand? How does the game ebb and flow? Where does a lot of the action take place? What unique shots can you try to get? How can you anticipate when something interesting or spectacular is about to happen? If there’s a long break in the action like halftime think about what you saw in the first half so you can try to do better in the second half. What did you see that you didn’t anticipate? What key events kept recurring? Where did they occur?

6.      If it’s a venue you’re unfamiliar with, again, try to practice there beforehand. If it’s outdoors what is the light like at that time of day? Where are the shadows? Does the field slope up or downhill? If it’s indoors what is the lighting like? Can you use a flash (ask the athletic director, event coordinator, coaches, league officials, etc.). Strobes may be allowed, but again, check in advance with the appropriate people. If you use flash or strobes and they’re not allowed, they may not allow you back. Is there a glare from the floor or the water?

7.      If you can, get down on the field (or court, or poolside, or whatever), on the sideline. At many events you may not be allowed to do this, but if you can it will help you get better shots. On the other hand I’ve been to events where special passes were supposedly mandatory, but all sorts of people were wandering the sidelines. Again, plan ahead. If not a week before or a day before, at least check with the appropriate personnel when you arrive. Most coaches, administrators and officials are relatively easy to get along with if you talk to them before the event starts, but there are exceptions.

8.      If you have to stay in the stands try to get a seat down low. Aerial shots aren’t usually very attractive, but like all rules in photography, there are exceptions.

9.      If the athletes are small, get down low. Down on your knees. Kneepads can help. The ones with the hard plastic are better than the ones that are entirely soft. You can often find them in hardware stores. Vinyl, tile, and carpet installers often wear them, as well as masons. Or just sit on the ground.

10.  Consider a monopod. It will be better than handholding and will allow a lot more mobility than a tripod. I hated it when I first tried it, but now I can’t do without it. If you have a lightweight tripod, don’t forget you can turn it into a monopod by merely shortening two of its legs. As with everything, practice is the key.

11.  You will soon find the best action shots often come when the subjects are moving towards you, instead of from side to side, but, beware of large bodies moving toward you in a rapid fashion. Looking through a camera and lens you don’t always realize how close or far someone really is from you, or how fast they’re moving. Don’t get hurt.

12.  Don’t disrupt the game. Be courteous and polite to the players, coaches, referees, athletic directors, and security personnel. Stay out of their way. Some are control freaks determined to prove how much power they have over four year old kids and photographers, while others are happy-go-lucky and a joy to work with. Either way, they set the parameters, and you’re privileged if they allow you on the sideline. It only takes a second to get a bad reputation, and they’ll remember you for a long time. If you act like a courteous professional you may be treated like one. In the course of a long season, you will make major points with these officials if you show up at subsequent games bearing a few free shots of them in action.

13.  Don’t be afraid to take a tight shot. Sometimes it’s nice to have a rather wide view to put everything in context, but tight shots can really concentrate on the action, not to mention show their facial expression more clearly. I’ve taken some shots that contain nothing but the head. Of course you can’t tell exactly what they’re doing, but you can see the intensity, concentration, and effort.

14.  Pay attention to the background. Especially at outdoor events you may have a large wooded area on one side of the field and the stands on the other. The trees will generally provide a much more pleasant and uniform background. Stands, especially metal ones, can be very bright and distractive during the day. Don’t forget about positioning yourself between the players and the sun, however.

15.  Don’t just “spray and pray”, taking hundreds of pictures, hoping for a few good ones. Anticipate the action. Be ready. Have your finger on the shutter. Concentrate on the game, the action. Don’t let yourself be distracted. Practice.

16. Experiment. Don’t be afraid to try something, even if everyone tells you it’s wrong. They’re your pictures of your kids, so you get to make the final decision.

Mike Cheliak

Get Out there Magazine

Get out There Magazine

Hi everyone.  Once in a while it is nice to “toot your own horn”.  So here it is.  For the second consecutive year, my photo (photos in this case) have been chosen for the March/April East Edition of Get out There Magazine.  The Magazine is free and is a great read for anything to do with outdoors, recreation, sports and adventure.  Both photos were taken from the HSBC Triathlon Series.  I have been the official series photographer since 2003.

This is one of the reasons that I love what I do!  I love to capture moments.  Since most of my moments are in sports and live action events, I have become pretty good at predictive shooting.  When you follow as many running and Triathlon events as I do, you get a feel for the flow and the emotions.  I myself have run a Duathlon (run/bike/run) and can tell you that there are hundreds of emotions that go through your head from before you start to the minute you finish.  I have a true love and affinity for this and am somewhat humbled and definitely honoured to have my photos selected to represent this sport and the joy that people get by finishing these races.

If you haven’t tried a multisport type event…DO IT!  There are a lot of series and races that offer “Give it a Try” Triathlons for beginners.  You don’t have to be an Olympic Athlete to do them…just a gutsy, fun loving person.

If you are lucky enough to live in Ontario, Canada…visit the HSBC Triathlon website at www.multisportcanada.com and enter a race…who knows, you may be on next seasons cover!

Sincerely,

Mike C.

Commando Guide Volume 1…Cameras and Equipment

Well, it’s almost here!  The first volume of Mike’s Commando Guide is now in the hands of someone who can speeell bitter tehn mee!  OK, all joking aside, the first volume is packed with TONNES of information that will help guide you to make better decisions in your purchases of cameras and equipment and will give you detailed information on the features and functions of today’s latest DSLR and point and shoot cameras.

When most people decide they need a new camera or are getting their first digital camera, most don’t do anywhere near enough due diligence.  V1 of the Commando Guide will go a long way to ensure you are making the right decisions and will arm you with all the information most camera sales people DREAD!  You will be comfortable making the right decision by asking intellegent questions and getting the most for your money.

I have been down that path of purchasing equipment and upgrading my digital gear for more than a decade.  Believe me when I tell you that this information would have saved me hundreds of dollars if I had it when I first started digital.  I made the mistakes that you will be able to avoid.

Sign up for the FREE Commando Guide Newsletter and stay in the loop about the offiicial launch!  There are going to be some great bonuses included for the first 200 people to get the guide. 

Have fun, Be Young and Live Life Large!

Mike Cheliak

Photo Tip – Camera Settings

BASIC CAMERA SETTINGS

All Digital SLR Cameras have a number of settings that are designed to make it easy for someone to “point and shoot”.  For a large number of situations that may be acceptable but for our purpose it is not.  That being said, it is important that each setting is explained to give you an idea as to what it does.  Most cameras have either letters or icon images explaining what each settings represents.  The following is an explanation of the setting and how it operates.
1. Shutter Priority
This option is usually represented by the letter S on your dial or menu.  Shutter speed is set by the user and that speed is maintained.  The camera meters the light and will make adaptive changes to your aperture setting (f/stop).  These changes are made by the camera and the user has no control over them.  While Shutter priority may sound useful, it really isn’t great for sports.  The reason is that in sports we want to keep the aperture wide open (as low a number as possible – usually f/2.8).  The reasoning will be covered later in this chapter.

2. Aperture priority
This setting does the opposite of shutter priority.  It holds the aperture at a set number while adapting the speed of the shutter.  Again, this may sound useful but it really can alter the success you have in stopping motion.  If the light becomes less intense, it can drop your shutter speed to a level too slow for the sport you are covering.

3. Programmed/Auto
This setting does everything for the user.  It makes changes to both the shutter speed and the aperture.  The changes that are made by this setting are way too drastic to ever be considered for our purposes.  The end result of your photos will be wholly inconsistent.

4. Other settings
Some cameras have settings that are factory presets for shooting portrait, landscape, dark lighting, sports/action and more.  These settings are not suitable for what we are trying to accomplish and shouldn’t be relied on to be anything more than a crutch that many people use when they are unsure of how to set their camera.  YOU, are going to be a Sports Shooting Commando and don’t need these foolish things!

5. Manual Mode
At last!  Here it is, the only setting you will ever need.  While not entirely true, that statement is more than accurate for most photographers, most of the time.  Call me a control freak but I want to make changes the way I am trained to do and the way you will be trained to do.  The manual mode is just what it says…Manual.  The user sets the camera and it stays like that until you change it again.  This goes for the aperture, shutter and the ISO settings (which we will get to next).  You need to be able to assess through reading a light meter, using your camera’s exposure meter (most have it) or by becoming used to making visual assessments, taking a couple test shots and adjusting as needed until you have the “sweet setting”.  Preplanning your shoot by testing your camera is a critical part of sports photography and will make you a very intuitive photographer as well.

6. ISO Settings
The ISO settings on DSLR cameras range from 50 ISO to over 25,000 ISO on some top end professional models.  It is not likely you will ever have the need to use an ISO setting higher than 1600 so we will work within that range for now.  The ISO setting makes your sensor more sensitive to light and therefore allows for quicker exposure in lower light situations.  Indoor shooting such as ice hockey or basketball will require an ISO setting of usually 800 or more.  This will ensure you have the shutter speed to stop action without blur. In all but the best professional cameras, higher ISO means more “noise” or grainy quality.  This can usually be dealt with by some post shoot processing using a noise reduction filter (that’s for another day).

BUILDING A HOMEMADE PHOTO LIGHTBOX

INTRODUCTION

If you have ever bought or sold anything on eBay or even noticed a really nice photo of something with a stark white background and almost no shadow at all, you have seen a lightbox at work.  As its name suggests; a lightbox illuminates your subject (in this case more often than not a small product item).  If you have items that you sell (jewellery, tools, small antiques, collectibles…), you really can’t afford NOT to have good product photos. While purchasing a lightbox may not break the bank, they can be a bit pricey.  This little guide will show you how to build one for as little as $5.00 (free if you have all the stuff lying around).  The end results will almost without a doubt be the same and you can build it in less than an hour.

THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED…
- Cardboard box (size will depend on what you are shooting)
- 2-4 sheets of white tissue paper
- 1 piece of matte white poster board
- 1 piece of matte black poster board
- Scotch tape
- Packing tape
- 12″ (30 cm) ruler
- pencil or pen
- Scissors
- Box cutter/Exacto Knife

THIS IS WHAT YOU DO…
1. Choose a box that will be large enough for the items you are photographing.  Since it is so cheap to do; you may want to do a couple different sizes
2. Secure the bottom of the box with packing tape. Use more packing tape to secure the bottom flaps inside. This will keep them out of the way.   Lay the box on its side, with the opening facing you.
3. Mark lines about 1 inch (2.54 cm) inside each edge of the box on each side and on the top. A standard 12″ (30 cm) ruler makes the perfect straight edge and is the right width.
4. Using the box cutter carefully cut along the lines you drew.  You can use the ruler as a straight edge to guide your cut. It is not necessary to get the cuts absolutely straight.  Notice that the flaps on the front of the box have been left on for now to add stability and make it easier to cut. You may find that taping the front flaps shut makes it easier to cut.
5. Cut the front flaps off with a box cutter.
6. Cut a section of tissue paper large enough to fit over each of the openings you cut. Then tape it to the outside of the box using cellophane tape. Start with one layer of tissue paper. After completing the box and making some test shots, you may find that you need additional layers of tissue paper to achieve the right lighting.  The tissue helps to diffuse (spread) the light and a little more paper will still let the light through but will help to spread it more evenly
7. Use your box cutter and scissors to remove any stray pieces of cardboard from the front edge of the box.
8. Cut a piece of matte white poster board to fit the inside of your box. The piece should be in the shape of a rectangle, with the width being the same as a side of the box, but the length being twice as long.
9. Insert the poster board into the box, curving it up towards the top of the box. Curve it gently; don’t crease it. Trim it if necessary. This will create an infinite, edgeless look for the background of your shots.
10. Cut matte black poster board in sections large enough to cover the tissue paper areas. This will allow you to block light from certain directions when taking photographs.  You may want a certain shot to have some shadowing and this “blackout” method will help to get the results very easily
11. Add your lighting. Photo lights, flashes, and even standard desk lamps can be placed on either side or above the box to produce the desired lighting effect.
12. Take some test shots as you go to see how well your tissue paper filters and diffuses the light. Add layers of tissue paper as needed.
13. You now have a lightbox!

COMMANDO TIPS…
1. Make sure to use matte and not glossy poster board. Glossy poster board can reflect the light and cause glare.
2. Try other colors of poster board and even fabric to achieve the desired effect.
3. You may find that removing the bottom of the box makes it easier to just drop the light box over your subject.
4. If you take shots straight down from above, cut the bottom of the box like the sides and top, and cover with tissue paper. Then set the box open side down and cut a lens sized hole in what is now the top of the box. That way you can lay out your subject on a piece of white matte cardboard, then drop the box over it, and shoot the photograph through the hole.
5. If your camera has one, learn how to use its “custom white balance” (WB) feature–this can make all the difference when shooting items in this fashion.

IN SHORT
Fun little projects like this are great to get you started doing some creative stuff for very little money.  Selling on eBay or your website or even a catalogue requires good quality product photos.  Being able to do them yourself can save you a lot of money, make you look very professional and even get you some business shooting products.

Photo Tip – Photographer etiquette and event rules

It was a great weekend of mostly “non-business” enjoyment.  My son played his last basketball game of the regular season and my daughter ran the 400m and 200m at the Ontario Indoor Track and Field Championships.  She set a PB in the 200m which she was very happy about.  At the track meet, I had the chance to just sit back and enjoy as a parent.  There were no unauthorized persons allowed in the track area.  Officials, coaches, athletes and an event company that was doing video and still photography at the event.

Over the course of two days there were more than 600 athletes competing in everything from running to jumping, pole vaulting, shot put and hammer throw.  Needless to say it was busy.  The point I am going to make here is that most events of this nature and level have VERY strict policies for the people who are allowed the privilege of event floor access.  You can’t interfere or become a distraction at any time during the event.  Almost all media persons know this.  Most except this one photographer who got tossed on Sunday.  I had a great seat in the stands and was watching all the events and also noticed an official who had appeared to instruct a photographer to back up and move out of what was a restricted area.  It was in the line of site of the runners who were at the start line and therefore a distraction.  He had asked this photographer a couple times to do this.  The photographer kept creeping back into the area.  Just as they were about to start one of the time section races, the official yelled out “STOP”.  He got up from his seated observation post.  Turned around and yelled at the top of his lungs “YOU…OUT!”  He proceeded to escort the photographer out.  The photographer did not return for the remainder of the time I was there which was most of the event.

Consider a couple things when you are shooting at an event.  First, unless you are the official event photographer or a media person; you may not have complete access to all areas of the event you are shooting.  Be aware of this and respect the boundaries of the event.  If you are unclear; ask an official for some clarification.  Second, understand that if you are there taking photos of your child, husband, wife, relative or friend that there are likely more people there doing exactly the same thing.  Play nice and share the space to allow everyone good access.  Last but almost certainly most important is that above anything, the athletes are the first concern at all times.  Don’t distract them, don’t get in their way (at running or cycling events) and don’t become a probem by getting into areas you shouldn’t be in.  It can be disruptive as I noted above and creates an uncomfortable situation for everyone.

Etiquette and event rules are part of shooting at any event.  It is very important that you know what they are before you get yourself set up to shoot. 

Mike Cheliak

Photo Tip – Take Care of your Gear!

OK…Photographers whether professional or amateur should know the value of their gear.  You would think that with the money invested in camera gear (from hundreds to tens of thousands) that the person would have the common sense to protect their gear from the elements.  This however is not the case!

Not too long ago, I was at an event and there was a couple media persons at the event covering it for their newspapers.  The two photographers I mention were veterans.  They had very nice camera gear which was worth well over 8,000 dollars.  It was an overcast day, the weather had been crappy for 2-3 days previously and the weather network was calling for continued rain for the next week.  The weather was NOT a surprise.

I had my trusty Laird Rain Hood for my cameras.  It was a $43.00 investment.  The camera cover does not impede your use of the camera not does it make it very difficult to shoot action.  It DOES however, protect my cameras perfectly.  They remain bone dry, accessible and ready to shoot all the time it is raining.

These two Einsteins had NOTHING to protect their camera gear.  When the sky opened up (and it did), they were following me (everyone always follows the leader!).  We were at almost 1km away from any shelter and they not only didn’t have any covering for their gear, they also didn’t have any rain gear for themselves.  Having no pity whatsoever, I sat happily in the rain, watching riders come in on their bikes, happily snapping AWESOME ACTION PHOTOS and watching as the two “professional” photographers scurried like mice in a maze.

Let me make this perfectly clear.  Your camera and equipment is your investment.  Whether personal or professional in nature, let me be blunt…BUY A FRIGGIN’ COVER!  Idiots like these two I mention are more common that you would think.  If you assume you will never need to protect your gear, then you will lose your gear.  If you intend on taking shots outside, assume you will need to protect your gear.

1. WATCH THE WEATHER NETWORK
2. ALWAYS HAVE YOUR PROTECTIVE COVER READY
3. FIGURE OUT WHERE TO RUN IF YOU GET CAUGHT IN A DOWNPOUR

Mike Cheliak

Photography Tip – Pet and Animal photography

Dyna

Animals lovers are one of the most voracious photographers on the planet! Everyone who has a pet, knows that their dog, cat, lizard, bird or whatever has its own personality, its own style and certainly its own unique look. Love of animals and animal photos means lots of time spent looking through the camera for that “special shot”.

While it is best to have a camera that has almost no lag time, you can have really good success taking most types of pet photos with any decent digital camera.

PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE
When you want a little more formal of a photo, remember to keep your sessions relatively short. The animal you are photographing would rather be chasing something, playing with something or getting a belly rub or pat on the head. You have a fairly narrow window of opportunity so make sure YOU are ready. If you have a tripod, use it. Set your camera up to point exactly where you are going to stage your photo and entice your little friend into that zone. Adjust quickly and SHOOT! If you can, try taking photos of your pet during normal activities that are “photo worthy”. Sometimes the best shot is a candid photo that has been thought through. Have an idea, compose your photo and take the picture. Another tip is to keep your actions and voice calm. Be a little subdued and don’t start using your playful voice as this will prompt more activity from your pet.

TOYS, PROPS, FOOD…
If your pet isn’t a willing poser, break out the artillery.  Squeeky toys, food, distraction items of colour and anything else that may get their attention.  If you are going to use this type of system it is absolutely critical that you are ready to shoot as soon as the item is displayed.  It is a really good idea to have an “assistant” run the distraction while you concentrate on the shots.

GO WILD!

Snarling little Kitty

There is nothing more stunning than a really good photo of an exotic animal.  Most of our photo ops happen at a zoo unless you are a safari nut or happen to trek into wilderness areas where the wild is in charge.  I myself have photos that are amazing shots of animals in the wild and continue to shoot natural wilderness flora and fauna whenever I can.  If you want to photograph a tiger, I would suggest doing so at a zoo unless you have a means to escape and a 600mm plus lens!  This Jaguar photo was taken at ZOOS in Stevensville Ontario Canada (near the Buffalo NY border).  I spent about 10 minutes getting the animal used to me being there, getting my settings just right and then started getting a little closer to her space until she decided that the nice man with the camera was getting too close to her house.  I had my camera ready and then I shot about 20 frames of her snarling at me.  You will notice that you can’t see any cage.  If you get close enough to the cage and have a long enough lens (I suggest 200mm or better) your focal length will be longer than the distance to the cage…thus…making it seem invisible.  Really close observation will show distortion of some details but not enough to bother.

THE EYES HAVE IT…
Whether shooting people or animals, it is a general rule to get as close to eye level as possible.  You can truly create a very intimate, warm photo by having the eyes in a level plane with the photo composition.

THE CLOSER YOU GET…
Fill the camera’s viewfinder or LCD display with your subject to create pictures with greater impact. Step in close or use your camera’s zoom to emphasize what is important and exclude the rest. Check the manual for your camera’s closest focusing distance.  This is also another benefit of having a long lens or a large ZOOM on your point and shoot camera.  You don’t have to be in the animals comfort zone to get that really great close-up photo.

LIGHTS…ACTION…CAMERA…

Nicky the Boxer peeling out!

OK, what is more fun than catching your critter running around like a lunatic?  Nothing.  In situations where your pet loves to tear around it can be very difficult to catch them unless you have a fast camera with almost no lag time.  Most point and shoot cameras simply can’t keep up with the frame rate and response time needed to catch a quick little animal.  If you have a DSLR, a fast lens is also a great tool.  Animals love to play and if you can get them In flagrante delicto, you may just have some of the best photos of your beloved pet that you will ever have.  In this photo, Nicky is my Nephew and his girlfriends boxer.  We had five dogs at the cottage (a Great Dane, an English Spaniel, Nicky the Boxer and my two Bichon Poos).  There was so much shooting available that it was crazy.  Everyone had a field day and there were more great photos taken of those puppies in action than you could amass in a year!

IN SHORT
Be ready, have a plan in place and TAKE TONS OF PHOTOS!  You can delete any that aren’t good enough to keep but you can’t take a photo of a moment that happens only once!  Have fun, keep it natural and if you are taking formal photos, be patient and organized!